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Published on October 11, 2020 16:12
preface
I have been to countless places, climbed numerous mountains and crossed numerous rivers, but only one place occupies the most important position in my heart, that is Hulunbuir. The reason why I remember it so deeply is that its beauty is inevitable. For me, what happened here is better than its beauty.
Hulun Buir is the birthplace of Genghis Khan. It gets its name from Hulun Lake and Beier lake on the prairie. It is known as the best grassland in the world.
The last time I went to Hulunbuir was at the beginning of June 2017. At that time, I was still a junior in University. Time was like water and the sun was like a shuttle. Three years passed quickly, and some things were still in my mind.
The Hulunbuir trip was not the first time for me to travel alone, but it was the first time that I lost contact with my parents. Because there was no signal in many places along the border highway, unfortunately, there was no signal in the place where I stayed that night, and I forgot to inform my family in advance. At that time, I never thought of what would happen later, but I thought it was just a normal trip. During the trip, my mother had the habit of calling me every day. That night, she made countless calls to me, but they couldn't get through. The parents who didn't know what happened to me thought that they were worried and kept trying to contact me. They didn't fall asleep all night, so they almost called the police! Fortunately, the next day after the signal, I received the news that they were looking for me. I called back and there was a scolding... Although it was a scolding, I could still feel that my mother was obviously relaxed. It was a long sigh of relief after she was extremely worried and knew that I was not in danger.
Now I want to hear my mother's abuse again, but I may never hear it again.
At the end of the trip, just a few days after returning to school, I received a call from my father. My father's tone was unprecedented heavy. The father on the other side of the phone was silent for a long time, and then hard to spit out two words: your mother was ill in hospital, the doctor said it might be a malignant tumor..... Before I finished, I could not cry. At the end of the phone, when I heard the bad news, I was stunned in the same place. At that time, my head seemed to explode suddenly, and the whole person was blown up. I couldn't believe it, and I didn't want to believe it.
On December 29, 2018, after two surgeries and more than 10 times of chemotherapy, I never received a call from my mother again. I never heard her scolding again. I used to think she was boring. For example, she was nagging, even a little bit of trivial things had to be nagged endlessly. I thought she had too many calls. But today, I regret that I didn't have the patience to listen to my mother's nagging, I regret that I didn't accompany her much. The tree wants to be quiet but the wind doesn't stop. The son wants to be raised but he doesn't want to stay. This has become my lifelong regret!
Early autumn, with regret, heavy, complex mood, I once again set foot on this piece of grassland, hoping to find some familiar memories. Perhaps influenced by the ancient people's impression of autumn, I always feel that this season gives people a feeling of autumn sorrow, and I can't help feeling a touch of emotion about autumn. The fallen leaves float to the world, and return to silence. We can't retrieve a fallen leaf, can't let it return to the fresh green as before. This is a kind of passing and a natural process. It will eventually go deep into the soil, turn into silt and nourish another new life, which is its own continuation and transcendence, and also the eternity of the moment of falling leaves.
Yeah! How could we not be fallen leaves?
Life is a journey, you may encounter rivers and lakes, experience a broad life, more likely to suffer from wind, frost, rain and snow, taste the world. You never know which will come first. But how can this unique life stand up to the magnificent and miraculous world if it is not full of twists and turns? Next, with my travel notes, let me lead you to feel the ups and downs of our more than ten days in Hulunbeier!
Personage introduction
A crazy person who is fond of photography and Adventure (@ go with a schoolbag), a fool who says go away (@ a flower)!
I was robbed by more than a dozen black people in South Africa and got away with it! I once walked for three days in the desolate plateau secret place, and met Niru's simple and beautiful scenery! I spent three months traveling in India, Sri Lanka and Nepal, challenging India for a month's hand grasping rice, experiencing trains and Nepal's Safari Festival
I met all kinds of people and things during the trip, and I want to share what I saw, heard and felt with you
Our itinerary
Our original plan for this trip to Inner Mongolia is Qiqihar Chaihe Manzhouli Heishantou Linjiang mordaoga Genhe Aoluguya Hailar Qiqihar, covering the routine north-south route of Hulunbeier, and the journey is relatively long. Moreover, when we first arrived at Chaihe, we were affected by Typhoon "mesak". It rained all the time. We stayed at the hotel and didn't go anywhere. After reading the weather forecast, the weather was very good in Hailar. Finally, in order not to delay our time, we changed our original plan for Chaihe - Arshan - Manzhouli and went straight to Hailar. A tourist map of Hulunbeier is attached.
trip:
The first day of Qiqihar -- Chaihe
The next day Chaihe (rain)
On the third day, Chaihe (rain) - Hailar
Chai River - tarqi - chuoer River - Boketu - Yakeshi - Hailar
The fourth day Hailar - Manzhouli
Manzhouli (night view of Guomen taowa Square)
The fifth day in Manzhouli -- Heishantou
Manzhouli - ZALAINUOER - Mammoth Park - Museum - Heishantou
On the sixth day, Linjiang
Heishantou - Qika - jiuka - Frontier highway (border river scenery along the road, Erguna River) - Shiwei - Linjiang
The seventh day facing the river -- Erguna (rest)
Linjiang -- Shiwei -- Enhe -- Erguna
Day 8 Erguna - gen River
Erguna -- Erguna Wetland -- Aoluguya reindeer garden -- Genhe
Day 9: the Root River Hailar
Gen river -- murigele River (Lao She's first river in the world) -- Hulunbuir grassland
Day 10 Hailaer -- Aershan National Forest Park
Arshan - Arshan railway station - Arshan National Forest Park - River camping
The 11th day: Chaihe, Arshan National Forest Park
Campsite -- Wusu langzi Lake -- unfreezing river -- Tianchi service area -- tuofengling Tianchi -- Grand Canyon -- Dujuan Lake -- Tianchi -- Chaihe
Day 12 Chaihe Qiqihar
What we carry
1. Two 2-time suitcases, you can board directly, do not need to check, a 24 inch suitcase, which is mainly equipped with camping equipment. 2. Clothing: wear a set of summer clothes when you go out. There are 2 T-shirts, 3 pairs of pants, one assault suit, one fleece jacket, one jeans and two shirts in the trunk.
3. Camera class: fuselage, Nikon D810, Nikon Z6. Lens, Nikon 24-70 f / 2.8 generation lens, Nikon Z 24-70 f / 4, Tuli 16-28 f / 2.8, Tenglong 70-200 f / 2.8 A009, 2 spare batteries, 128G flash memory card, dimmer, tripod, shutter cable, camera bag.
4. Digital category: mobile phone, data cable, power bank, plug-in, digital supplies storage bag.
5. Washing and skin care: 100ml toothpaste, 100ml shampoo, 100ml shower gel, toothbrush, towel, razor, soap, sunscreen, wash bag.
6. Cards: ID card, driver's license
7. Drugs: none.
Meitu look ahead
Murigele River
Arxan
On the way
On the way
Aershan unfreezing River
Arxan
Taowa square
Taowa square
Mammoth Park
Mammoth Park
Mammoth Park
Mammoth Park
Frontier highway
Heishantou town
Heishantou town
Frontier highway
Frontier highway
Aoluguya emissary deer tribe scenic spot
Aoluguya emissary deer tribe scenic spot
Aoluguya emissary deer tribe scenic spot
Murigele River
Arshan railway station
Camping by the river
Camping by the river
Have a barbecue in Qiqihar before you go
Qiqihar is famous for its barbecue. If you ask the people of Qiqihar where the barbecue is best, they will raise their face and say "my family!" with a little pride and accent. Shen Teng, from Qiqihar, even in Xihong city's richest man, did not forget to arrange a part for "Qiqihar Barbie Q", which was the dinner of Warren Buffett.
How much do Qiqihar people like barbecue?
Let's put it this way! Other cities are BBQ street, Qiqihar is BBQ street! In Qiqihar, almost every family has its own roasting pot, and every family has a meat mixing expert. Barbecue is not only their daily table meal, but also their delicious food for guests. If there are guests coming from afar, they will shake off their arms and take out their unique skills. They will use the best meat with their best skills to ensure that the guests will enjoy themselves.
I read a lot of recommendations on the Internet. After several comparisons, we finally chose Ma Xiaoma's barbecue. I swear it's the best barbecue I've ever eaten! No one! The barbecue here is very different from the barbecue we usually eat. It's not what you want to eat, but you need to go to the next butcher's shop to order the meat. It's also true. After the meat is cooked, the clerk will put various seasonings in the meat to mix it well, and then the clerk will give some butter as a gift. The meat here is relatively cheap compared with other areas of our country. The beef we cut is 49 yuan / kg. The last thing is to choose the dip. Don't underestimate the dip. Mixing meat and dip determine the soul of Qiqihar barbecue. In addition to the meat money and dipping money, you also need to pay the cost of a roasting plate, which seems to be 25 yuan. Before baking, we must rub the fat around the baking plate. The aroma is overflowing. When the fragrant butter is lumped, we can start baking.
When I was at home, I ordered a car in advance. There were two kinds of vehicles to choose from, one was a car, the other was an SUV. Considering the complex road conditions on the grassland, I chose an SUV.
From Qiqihar to Chaihe, it's 340 kilometers to take the expressway. But we didn't choose to take the expressway to mushuqi town. Instead, we chose to take a shortcut. Nearly 60 kilometers of the road, 232 National Road - Nianhua road - Beijing Jiaxing line, to mushuqi town. However, this is definitely not a wonderful decision, it can be said that it has been in a lot of conditions along the way.
We drove to the section of Nianhua highway, but we didn't expect that all the way was full of big pits. Most of the time, we drove too fast to see the pits before our eyes. However, it was too late and the brakes were too late. I was very lucky that I rented an SUV. If it was a car, I couldn't stand such bumps. This is the beginning of the situation, and then we almost go through all kinds of unexpected situations like a big adventure.
Having suffered the loss of Tai Keng, we learned a lesson. Instead of driving in a hurry, we slowly enjoyed the scenery along the way, mainly to avoid Tai Keng. By the time we got to mushroom Town, it was completely dark. The mu'a highway is known as the most beautiful county road in China. It integrates forest, grassland, rivers, Panshan Road, wetlands, volcanoes, and even cattle, horses and sheep. It is a scenic highway along the Cambrian route and the dada route. Taking moon town as the boundary, the road is divided into east section and west section. However, the east section of the road is also a pit along the way. At present, the road is under construction, so many places need to be bypassed. We went around all the way, avoiding all kinds of obstacles. Moreover, due to the influence of road construction, the road was dusty, so we were all in a bit of a mess. Tired is really tired, and the scenery along the way is also beautiful.
I saw that the road was only 30 to Chaihe, but I didn't expect that there would be any problems when there was only such a section left. When we went around the last construction section, we first crossed two large reservoirs (we didn't dare to do it at first, after all, it was not very safe, so we had to stop in front of the reservoir. Then we saw a pickup truck passing by, and the water didn't seem deep, And we can't stop here, so we have to keep up). We followed the pickup truck all the way to a muddy road. The chassis of the pickup truck was higher and passed easily, but the chassis of our car was not so high. I was worried that our car would rub the chassis, so we walked on a more smooth road to the left. God! I didn't expect that this was another wrong decision. The tragedy happened. Our car got stuck in the mud. No matter what, we couldn't get out. We were both trapped in the car. The doors on both sides were flooded with mud. After several attempts, the doors couldn't be opened! It can be said that we have been in a desperate situation, and there are few good ways to get out of this predicament.
Sure enough, misfortune never comes alone. It's dark all around. It's raining heavily outside! Ben was trapped in the mud. After the heavy rain, the situation immediately became worse. Through the light from the car headlights, we found that both sides of the road seemed to be a piece of arable land, deserted and uninhabited. There were four cars passing by. Unfortunately, they didn't carry the pulling rope. They were powerless and couldn't pull us out. As time went by, our hope for help was dashed, and they were even ready to spend the night here. All of a sudden, I thought that we still had insurance. I wanted to contact the insurance company to save us. Fortunately, there was a signal on the mobile phone here. We found the phone number of the insurance company in the car and asked the insurance company for road rescue. As a result, we were told that the nearest service point here was more than 200 kilometers away, and it took us several hours to come here. It was too far to be near the fire, The insurance company asked us to find someone to pull it out first, and the expenses would be reimbursed by them. Our hopes were dashed again. I wanted to wait alone. At this time, the owner of our hotel called and asked when we would arrive. We described the current difficulties to her. She said that she could help us find a tractor from Chaihe and let it pull us out, but the cost was 600 yuan. We looked at each other with a smile, and I said: it seems that farmers are more simple and don't ask too much. Because we have also called Road rescue before, and they asked for 2400 yuan. So we gladly called a tractor to pull us. Although the insurance company has said that they have to pay for the expenses, we don't need to spend money, but we have to save some money for others! ha-ha!
About 30 minutes, it's coming! Da! Da! Da! The sound of tractors, farmers driving tractors, wearing headlights, braved the rain came! I turned from the front row to the trunk, took out the trailer coupler and handed it to the farmer's elder brother. The farmer's elder brother put on the coupler and put on the rope. The tractor pulled gently, I stepped on the accelerator and the car came out. The whole process turned out to be unexpectedly smooth. Our great adventure has finally come to an end.
After thanking the farmer's elder brother, he drove his tractor again! Da! Da! Da! Da! He walked slowly. We chased him all the way, but we didn't catch up with his tractor. He slowly disappeared into the night! At 12 o'clock in the evening, we finally arrived at Chaihe. Although it was late at night, the innkeeper was still waiting for us patiently! Our hearts are not moved by the rise of strands.
When we came out, the car was clean, but we experienced such a series of "Big Adventures", which were both big pits and quagmire. Now the car has been completely destroyed by us. It's full of scars and mud. It's spread on the car body recklessly, and even got into the sand in all kinds of cracks. Fortunately, it rained all night. When I got up the next morning, I wanted to wash my car. After all, the old man was upset by me yesterday, but when I went out, the car was washed clean by the rain! God saved me 50 yuan for car washing! ha-ha!
Affected by the epidemic, and it's also the off-season for tourism, the overall price here is much lower than before. The owner of the hotel told us that in the peak season, a room sold for three or four hundred yuan a night, but now it's only 50 yuan a night, so we've got a big bargain. We've been traveling at the wrong peak. After the summer vacation and before the national day, there are not only few people, but also low prices. However, there are still some regrets. The date we came here is not the best time for autumn tour. In fact, the best time for Hulunbeier to enjoy autumn tour is from September 20 to October 15. Want to play the baby, you can refer to yo!
Chaihe Hailar
Chaihe town belongs to Zhalantun City, Hulunbuir City, also known as moon town. Because the moon Tianchi in the territory is similar to the "full moon", it is named "moon town". What's more, the shape of the town is also a semicircle, which is worthy of the name of moon town.
After a day's tiredness, I wake up naturally when I sleep. I feel most comfortable when I get up. However, the sound of rain outside the window doesn't mean to stop until now! This kind of rain is not suitable for travel, so I have to lie in the house until the rain stops, and then I lie in the next morning.
According to the weather forecast last night, the rain may last two or three days. We finally arrived at our destination. It would be too wasteful to lie here for two or three days. In order not to let this trip regret, we decided to adjust the route, tomorrow first straight to Hailar, play the north line, and then take the way back to the Arshan.
After breakfast in the small town, we drove all the way to woniupaozi while the rain stopped. Fortunately, there were no different conditions on the way as yesterday, and the journey was smooth. Woniu paozi is also called woniu Tianchi and Tongxin Tianchi. However, there is no need to pay for tickets for such a wonderful scenery. The best place to watch woniu paozi is on a mountain. Along the main road of the town, you will pass a Y-shaped intersection and drive all the way up the mountain northward. Or you can directly navigate from the hotel to wangniu mountain peak. After that, you don't need to open the navigation to get to the destination. You can drive about two or three kilometers, You can see a wooden plank road up the mountain. This is the best place to watch. You can have a panoramic view of woniupaozi!
The plank road is not long. At present, there is still a small section that has not been completely repaired. However, it adds a bit of mysterious beauty. Looking at the past, it feels quite good. There are a group of middle-aged and elderly people chatting on the plank road. They are all residents of Chaihe town. They walk here every morning to exercise. Want to live in this wonderland like place, breathing the most fresh and natural air, is very good for the body! I don't know if it's too early, or there are too few tourists in this season. Except for us, we didn't see any other tourists in the whole journey!
Tips: standing at the highest viewing platform, you can see Chaihe town in the distance. There is a road around the lake around woniupaozi. At present, the road is also under construction. It is temporarily closed and can't get in.
Walking to a forest, moistened by the rain, a group of mushrooms grow out of the grass. We don't know if they are edible mushrooms, and we dare not act rashly.
Go on along the road that just went to woniupaozi, that is, to tarqi, chuoheyuan and Boketu. All the way through the forest, grassland and wetland, the weather gradually cleared up, there were few vehicles passing by, and trucks accounted for the majority. There is a section of road in the middle, which is also under construction. The road condition is not better than that of the day before yesterday. It is full of pockmarked "washboard" roads, but we have already had experience. We first observed the road condition, and then walked carefully.
We walked behind the whole section of the mu'a highway. I think the scenery of this road is better than that of the mu'a highway. Maybe because there are very few tourists walking along this road, this road maintains its original scenery.
Along the way, we watched all kinds of scenery. Because of the coming of early autumn, the grass and the trees are golden, and we can hardly distinguish the difference between the two colors. Actually, there is an old cow eating grass leisurely, but I don't know if the cow is old. This cow is really big. His fat body swings from side to side from time to time, and his tail swings around, Dutifully doing the work of driving away mosquitoes and flies, it seems particularly leisurely. Leisurely old cow, clear stream, I don't know where the cowherd is. The whole picture is harmonious. The cattle are in twos and threes. There are a bunch here and a bunch there. Not far away is the low cowshed.
I was worried about the time difference of mobile phone signal along the way. Last time, because there was no signal on my mobile phone, my mother was still anxious to make a phone call. Thinking of this, I even hope that my mobile phone will go on without signal. Then my mother will call me and scold me again, but it's impossible.
When we passed a farm, we saw a large haystack. We could not wait to step on the brake and rush into the grassland. Both of them took satisfactory photos after more than an hour. In fact, a large part of the reason for this self driving trip in Inner Mongolia is also coming to the haystack.
It's a great time to take a picture. I'm full of tears after four pictures! Sure enough, impulse is the devil! We were too excited to leave the car and rush to the haystack without thinking about the consequences. Because the linkage cloud car we rented was controlled by the mobile phone to open and close the door, we didn't pay attention to the signal of the mobile phone when we got off, so we closed the door and left. When I came back, I found that there was no cell phone signal here. The door couldn't be opened. Two people were standing in front of the car in a mess
There is no village in front of us, no shop behind us, no mobile phone signal, no passing vehicles. We are in a state of isolation again. Two people are more nervous than ever. What should we do? What should I do? Although we are anxious, but also can pretend to calm comfort each other, there will be a way, there will be a way.
Unfortunately, at this time, the weather on the grassland changed as soon as it changed. As soon as it was still ten thousand miles away, dark clouds began to spread in the twinkling of an eye. The wind was blowing harder and harder, and the two of them shivered.
It's going to rain heavily. We don't have any hope. What should we do? What's for dinner tonight? Where are you staying tonight? If it rains heavily, will we get sick?
I ran around anxiously, looking for cell phone signals, but I still got nothing
In the near collapse, holding the heavy rain will hit the window to escape the rain mood back, a casual, mobile phone Bluetooth successfully connected to the car's Bluetooth, I excitedly hit the door button. It seems that there is no way out!
The door has been opened! We're saved! No more rain! Dinner is ready! There's a place to sleep tonight! A series of things that should not have been worried but were really difficult have been settled.
tips：
1. If you rent a car like this, please make sure there is no signal before you get off the car, and then decide whether to close the door or not.
2. After the door is closed, even if the door is not locked on the mobile phone, the car will automatically lock the door after a period of time.
3. It's no good to open the window and close the door. After a period of time, the car will still be locked automatically. After being locked, the car can't be started without pressing the open key through the mobile phone.
4. There are two ways to lock and open the door, one is through the network control, the other is through the Bluetooth connection control, but the Bluetooth control needs to be able to search the GPS signal. We were lucky to find the GPS signal before we opened the door.
5. Where there is no signal, if you need to get off, you can make the car unable to lock automatically by not closing the door. But you still need to be careful not to let the wind close the door.
6. If it is a long-term rental, you can try to contact the rental company in advance to apply for the key.
A flower and I like the big haystack very much. Our obsession with the big haystack may come from the light aroma of the soil and grass after the rain. But the soil and grass after the rain are hard to get close to each other. After all, the mud splashed all over our face is different from the big haystack. It's so big that it has the smell of grass and the warm smell of the sun, Most of all, it doesn't resist our closeness. Lying on the haystack, it's like lying in the crops drying by my grandmother when I was a child. My happiness is full!
After arriving at Boketu, we arrived at Yakeshi city along national highway 301, and finally went to Hailar from Yakeshi on the expressway.
Along the way, you can always see unattended motorcycles and cars standing on both sides of the road. These car owners should be picking mushrooms in the nearby woods!
August and September is the best time to pick mushrooms. Mushrooms in Northeast China are famous for their delicious taste. They are not only various, but also fragrant and delicious. The most important thing is that they are nutritious. As non northeast people, before we came here, we only knew about Flammulina velutipes, Lentinus edodes, Agrocybe aegerita, Pleurotus eryngii and other cultivated fungi. Only when we arrived did we find that our cognition is really lacking! There are many kinds of mushrooms in Northeast China!
This paper introduces some common mushrooms: Coprinus comatus, one of the most famous mushrooms in Northeast China, Coprinus comatus, whose umbrella cover is 20 cm in diameter and 5 cm in thickness Pine umbrella (the second most important treasure after Tricholoma matsutake, the golden mushroom in Northeast China.)
When we went home, we were attracted by the aroma of small yellow mushroom, and one of them liked stewed chicken very much, so we bought half a jin of small yellow mushroom and prepared to make stewed chicken with the freshest small yellow mushroom. The price we buy is about 80 yuan per kilogram. It seems that the price of specialty products is much cheaper than usual at this time.
Hailar Manzhouli
Hailar is mainly used as the distribution center of Hulunbeier tourism, and its playability is not high. Hailar memorial garden of the world anti fascist war (ticket price is 60 yuan) and the holy mountain of two rivers are more famous. I have been to these two spots before, and the tour experience is not very good, so I directly ignored them this time.
In Hailaer, we ate a roast and rinse buffet, which was delicious. It was 66 yuan per person, and the price was not expensive. As a carnivore, of course, I would not let go of the beef and mutton here. The beef and mutton here tasted very good, tasted delicious and chewy. It didn't look like synthetic meat or fake meat. I don't know if what we ate was the brother of the old cow we had seen before! Of course, there are a wide range of other things. The name of the store is xinshengyuan grilled buffet. If you are interested in children's shoes, you can try them.
Affected by Typhoon "mesak", Hailar also had a few days of rain. Today, it has just cleared up, and the road to the grassland must not be dry. We dare not cross the grassland. After all, the Red Army's Long March tells us that the grassland looks nothing, but in fact, there are dangers everywhere. The biggest difficulty encountered by the Red Army in the long march is not the snow mountain, not the dangerous river, but the grassland. If I get stuck in a car in the grassland, the insurance company will scold me to death! I thought I was cheating! ha-ha!
As a result, the itinerary was further adjusted to take the route of Manzhouli, and finally from Genhe to Hailar to cross the grassland. In fact, the itinerary was the same as the original plan, but now it's going backwards.
As a result, the itinerary was further adjusted to take the route of Manzhouli, and finally from Genhe to Hailar to cross the grassland. In fact, the itinerary was the same as the original plan, but now it's going backwards.
Hailaer to Manzhouli take Haiman first-class highway, G301 national highway, the total length is about 200 km. There are road sections in Hailaer section, but it has little impact on driving. The whole line is the same as the high speed, very easy to drive, but there is interval speed measurement. Pay attention not to exceed the speed limit. There are endless grasslands on both sides of the road. It's great to drive on such a road. Ren Feng pours on his face and his mood is flying.
Tips: if you want to get out of the car and take photos, you must pay attention to the cars coming from the rear, and make sure to pull over when there is no car. The road base is very wide and parking is very convenient.
Manzhouli is the largest land port city in China and the largest land port in China, with Mongolia in the West and Russia in the north. It has the grassland scenery of "the sky is vast, the wild is vast, the wind blows, the grass is low, the cattle and sheep are visible", and it also has the geographical characteristics of "looking at Russia and Mongolia at a glance, crowing chickens and smelling the Three Kingdoms". With such a location adjacent to a foreign country, both sides will naturally have some influence on culture or customs. Architecture is no exception. In Manzhouli, looking at the buildings with red bricks and green tiles, it seems that you are in a foreign country. It is this kind of exotic customs of the integration of Chinese, Russian and Mongolian elements that makes Manzhouli more charming and cultural.
As a landmark tourist attraction in Manzhouli, I believe that a large number of people, especially girls, should start to know Manzhouli from taowa square! The colorful Russian buildings are like colorful fairy tales. Being in it, every girl's fairy tale dream can be inspired.
There is an amusement park in taowa scenic area, which has no interest for us. We will go to the next destination soon（ Any interest or not is fake! If you don't want tickets, you'll get in early! Oh! Oh! Oh! It's not because of 148 yuan tickets and fear of heights, ha ha!)
Since you come to taowa square, buy a taowa as a souvenir! Although taowa is a traditional Russian handicraft, most of the taowa you buy in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Yekaterinburg or lake Baikal come from yianpo, a small town in Heilongjiang Province, China.
Pop! Pop! Pop! I hit you in the face! Do you dare to pay high price to buy back Russian local products produced by China when you travel to Russia in the future? ha-ha! This kind of feeling is like you go abroad, want to buy some foreign products, the results go home carefully, surprised to find the above three words "made in China"!
The big dolls behind is the dolls hotel. The whole hotel is in the shape of dolls, which is novel! It's also grounded. It's very pleasing. It catches the eyes of tourists all of a sudden. This is the largest theme hotel in Hulunbuir. Use your imagination. What's inside? Is it a suite of rooms? Interested in children's shoes can go to experience yo!
Manzhouli national gate scenic spot, tickets 70 yuan per person, we weigh, and did not choose to go in. There is a taxi driver next to us to promote his national tourism route, saying that it is 20 yuan per person, can take you around the scenic area, you can see China's national gate and Russia's national gate, and you can also see Russia's houses... Well, the master is very interesting, but we are not interested in the scenic area, we also choose to ignore it!
This is a locomotive photographed from the railings. The small locomotive carries important historical significance. It is a "Asia" steam locomotive made in Japan in 1940. The rail under the locomotive is 43 rail made by the Soviet Union in 1925. This locomotive has galloped over the land of China for more than half a century, performing the "trilogy" of life mileage, Many little-known stories are left behind. It was affectionately named "Manzhouli" by the people of Manzhouli.
Through the night of Manchuria, we know that the night can be so beautiful! The color of the whole city of Manzhouli is very unified, which outlines the lines and outlines of the buildings. With the diversity of architectural styles, the exotic customs can be seen at a glance.
Recommended location for night scene shooting in Manzhouli
1. Taowa square
2. North Bank of North Lake Park
3. Zhongsu Street
4. Second, third and fifth streets
My nightscape equipment list:
1. A tripod as steady as a dog
2. Fuselage: Nikon D810
3. Lens: Nicole 24-70 f2.8 generation
4. Shutter line
Reference parameters: aperture f13, ISO 100, exposure 10s
If the night in memory is quiet, then the night here must be bright. Colorful lights outline the outline of the building, which naturally adds a sense of brilliance. The lines of the lamp are smooth and bright, and the colors are just right. Walking in the street facing the starlight at night, looking at these magnificent buildings, my heart is not consciously clear up.
Most of the buildings emit light is very unified, golden intersection, and will not give a dazzling feeling. There is no rest in the building, and there is no rest for the people who come here to stroll. They stroll in high spirits, and the people they know and don't know greet each other warmly. For some reason, looking at the golden buildings reflected by these golden lights, I always feel that they seem to exist in ancient Egypt.
Zalainor
ZALAINUOER District, belonging to Hulunbuir city of Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, is managed by Manzhouli City. In other words, the famous Hulun Lake is also located in ZALAINUOER district.
If you want to play, the playability of ZALAINUOER may be slightly higher than that of Manzhouli and Hailaer, and the tourists often go to Hulun Lake, mammoth Park and ZALAINUOER Museum.
Tips：
1. Those who like to take photos can go to mammoth park. During the epidemic period, tickets with ID card are half priced at 15 yuan, which I strongly recommend. It's really good to make films here. Girls must not come here by mistake! The style of the photos is very small and fresh. For details, you can see the photos behind me. Of course, you can also try the color of abandoned industrial style.
2. If you like to understand history and humanities, you must not miss the ZALAINUOER Museum. It is the largest museum in Hulunbeier and another concentrated exhibition place of Mongolian Yuan culture in Hulunbeier. The museum is free and closed on Monday. Museum and mammoth park together, you can play mammoth Park and then go to the museum. It's forbidden to enter the museum at 16:30 p.m., so we must grasp the time.
3. I personally don't recommend Hulun Lake. The scenery is very ordinary. There is nothing to go in except big. Hailar can kill it in seconds at any lake on the edge of Manzhouli road. Moreover, it's quite far away. During the epidemic period, you can enjoy half price tickets of 20 yuan with your ID card, and you have to charge an additional 5 yuan entrance fee for driving in the car. If you have to come, go to Hulun Lake first, then mammoth Park, and finally the museum. It's a good way to go, but you don't have to go back. Another thing is that Hulun Lake is backlight in the afternoon, so it's hard to take photos.
When I come to mammoth Park, I have to introduce the origin. The following content comes from the Internet.
Mammoth fossils were discovered during stripping operation on the Dalan Oromu ancient river channel in April 1980. Experts named the mammoth fossil No. 1. In the early morning of May 15 of the same year, No. 2 fossil was found in the open pit mine, and the excavation of No. 2 elephant began on May 18. In July 1980, No.2 mammoth fossil was officially unearthed, with a complete degree of 70%. It is 4.75 meters tall, 9 meters long, 3.1 meters long incisor, and 1.1 meters in diameter at the root of incisor. It is the largest fossil found in China so far. It has been toured to the United States, Britain, Japan, the Netherlands and other countries. In the spring of 1984, No. 3 mammoth fossil was found in the open pit mine of ZALAINUOER Mining Bureau, which made ZALAINUOER known as "hometown of mammoth".
Entering the park, there are many scenes that are shocking and can hold people's eyes firmly, but the most attractive thing is our protagonist mammoth sculpture, but we have become the most attractive ones.
Before going out, I was careless. I thought that the weather was getting colder and the mosquitoes should not be active, so I didn't carry anything like mosquito repellent. I didn't feel that there were mosquitoes a few days ago. After all, I didn't have much outdoor activities.
The grassland coverage rate in the park is very high. It's basically grass except the road. Soon after we came in, we were both dumbfounded. Groups of mosquitoes immediately surrounded us. They were extremely fierce and had super combat power. Wherever we went, they would persevere to follow us. They would not drive them away. They were all rushing to take the last bite of blood to reserve energy for overwintering. What's more, one of them was bitten by mosquitoes when she was wearing silk stockings. It seems that the mosquitoes in early autumn were fierce, and my face, ankle and hands were all bitten by mosquitoes. After autumn, mosquitoes seem to have stronger fighting power. Compared with summer, they are more indomitable and will never stop without harvest! Fortunately, we both wear long clothes and trousers. If we wear short clothes and shorts, we will be bitten by mosquitoes!
tips：
1. Whether it's summer or autumn, go to grassland mosquito repellent water, toilet water or carry it with you!
2. Try to wear long clothes, trousers and socks, because ankles are also easy to attack.
3. Standing still in place is the easiest way to be bitten by mosquitoes, which can keep your body moving all the time
There are many mammoth sculptures of different sizes in the park. The sculpture group here has also been awarded the title of "the largest mammoth sculpture group" by Guinness headquarters of Shanghai big world. We stand in front of those giant mammoth sculptures and look very small.
Besides mammoth sculptures, the most striking ones are the candy colored church, the romantic Ferris wheel and the Yellow sightseeing tower. Unfortunately, at present, because of the epidemic situation, the three doors are closed and not open. However, it doesn't matter. After all, we still have many scenic spots to experience. The appearance of these three buildings is already very beautiful. As the saying goes, the greater the expectation, the greater the disappointment. If the scenery inside doesn't meet our expectation, don't we want to be disappointed? In this way, we can still keep our expectation of these three scenes.
I said here is "lost youth paradise", one said I how so vulgar, is her sister's era, non mainstream! Is it really so vulgar? You judge!
The next group photo was taken on a tripod while we risked the huge risk of being bitten by mosquitoes (both of us have been bitten by mosquitoes). Because the place is relatively open, the scenery is more pleasant, and there are few people, the whole picture is very clean and tidy.
For self portrait teaching, Nikon D810 is listed as follows:
1. Set up a tripod as stable as a dog and install the camera.
2. Set parameters, aperture priority, generally sunny weather, my aperture is set to F11, iso200. You can increase the aperture on cloudy days.
3. Find the self timer category in the menu, and the C3 of Nikon D810 in the custom setting menu
4. Set the self timer delay of 10 seconds, the number of shots of 9, and the shooting interval of 3 seconds, which can be adjusted according to the actual needs.
5. Turn on real-time viewfinder, construct the image, and focus on the face.
6. Press the shutter, quickly run to the predetermined position and set the pose. After hearing the sound of the shutter, change the pose immediately, and so on, until the shooting is finished.
This is an area for tourists to take photos, which is composed of some abandoned cars, locomotives, train carriages, tramcars, etc. Some locomotives and abandoned cars are painted in dreamy blue, and there is the blessing of the dreamy Ferris wheel. It happens that the sky is so blue that it seems that it can drip water. The big white clouds are stacked, and the artistic conception naturally comes into being.
But this is also the place with the most mosquitoes and poison. Usually a flower is a person who will explode in situ as long as there is a mosquito buzzing. Today, I didn't hear a complaint about mosquitoes from her mouth, because she is addicted here. It's all her favorite photos. Hah! Oh! Oh! Another flower was ridiculed by ten thousand critical hits from me!
We hold hands to take photos in front of the ferris wheel. The scenery in front of us is more beautiful than the people in front of us. Sky blue locomotive, sky blue carriage in the pure blue sky, it seems how fantastic! Maybe this is the dream world in the girl's heart! One is enjoying here. She closes her eyes and opens her arms, as if trying to embrace the wonderful scenery. One is wearing a white skirt, and the breeze gently blows up her skirt. It seems that one of them is integrated into the poetic and picturesque.
But I don't feel that much about these dreamy scenes. I'm more interested in the locomotive and the abandoned forklift. They look very powerful. But I don't know what happened to them.
Wearing black clothes with the locomotive photo, do not look carefully, it is estimated that I have ignored it!
One is wearing a white veil, which complements her skirt and integrates with the scenery. After taking some beautiful photos, we can walk everywhere. The most important thing in the scenic area is the grass. The fragrance of the grass surrounds us. One flower and I can also calm down and enjoy the hard time. From time to time, we pointed out the scenery around us, making noise like a child. We are now generally speeding up the pace of life, work in a hurry every day, shopping in a hurry, and even travel in a hurry, but occasionally enjoy this comfortable time, walking slowly, chatting slowly, saying love words slowly, is it not a kind of happiness?
Hulun Lake
Hulun Lake, also known as Dalai Lake, means "lake like the sea" in Mongolian, and it is sister lake to Beier lake. The name "Hulun Beier" also comes from these two lakes. It is the largest lake in Inner Mongolia, the largest lake in Northeast China, the fifth largest lake in China and the fourth largest freshwater lake.
As a matter of fact, it is characterized by being big. Apart from being big, there is nothing wonderful about the scenery. The scenery of any lake or wetland on the roadside is better than here, and there is no need for tickets.
Affected by the epidemic, you can enjoy 50% discount on ID card tickets, 20% per day. If you want to drive in, you have to make up another five yuan. But we put it all together. If the car doesn't go in and there's no place to park, it goes in. How to say we can't haggle over five yuan!
Due to abundant time, we came here on the spur of the moment. We arrived in the afternoon, so the photo was basically backlit. It's better for friends who are ready to come in the morning! If you want to come here, the normal route is Manzhouli Hulun Lake mammoth Park ZALAINUOER Museum. It's about 40 kilometers from Manzhouli to here, and then it's about 22 kilometers from here to mammoth park. It is said that the windmill on the road from Manzhouli to Hulun Lake is very good.
There isn't any special scenery in the scenic area, and it's not big, but there are still a lot of tourists. It's estimated that the publicity is in place, and the tourists are running for the name. The best shooting point is on the left side of the park. There are several wanghong shooting points by the lake, which are very similar to those on the beach of ER in Dali. There is also a ladder under repair, which is not allowed to go up at present. However, all the photos are big backlight, which depends on the later period.
The scenery here is not heavy make-up, but fresh and graceful. The people who look at it are soft. Sky is light blue, water is light blue, everything is light, light just right. I think it's good that a few places have been specially arranged to shoot in wanghong. Although mountains, water and sky have no more words to describe them than elegance, shooting from these angles is quite impressive. Although these are the shooting spots of wanghong, they are not boring. They are not some fancy shooting spots of wanghong. The setting of these shooting spots is the same as the scenery here, which is also elegant. The shooting is simple but not simple, and it is very comfortable to watch.
The most beautiful highway in China -- Frontier highway
Mammoth park is about 180 kilometers from heihantou town to take 904 County Road, also known as the border road. The road conditions are very good all the way, but we must pay attention to the speed limit. In the case of good road conditions, maybe some old drivers can't help but accelerate and experience a thrilling feeling. After all, it's really cool to drive fast! It's all interval speed measurement here. The speed limit is 80 km / h.
If we plan to finish the first day's journey in zalainor and Heishan, we have to start early in the morning, otherwise we will not be able to catch up with the dark sunset. This is a big pity.
tips：
1. The offline map must be downloaded in advance when walking along the border defense road
2. Mobile phones must cancel international roaming in advance
3. After entering 904 County Road, the mobile phone will turn on the flight mode to avoid searching for Russian signals, and the health code will change color
4. UAVs are not allowed to fly along the border highway. There are many warning signs along the way. We just entered the county road and took pictures there
5. No crossing the border, there will be barbed wire as a warning to intercept, crossing the border has serious consequences
Because the frontier highway was not open to the outside world, it still has the purest and most moving grassland scenery. Along the road, on the left is the winding Erguna River, and on the other side of the river is Russia, where you can see villages and sometimes Russian farming vehicles working. Because the distance is still relatively far away, we can't see foreign friends.
There are not many vehicles passing by. Occasionally, large trucks will occupy more than half of the road, carrying a full carriage of haystacks from the opposite side. I am most nervous at this time, for fear that the trucks will scratch me. After all, because of the obstruction of haystacks, there are likely to be many blind spots.
The cattle and sheep on both sides of the road are eating grass in twos and threes, and sometimes they shake their tails leisurely. They still eat grass and shake their tails on their own, as if they don't mind being disturbed by tourists or paying much attention to them, so they are not afraid of life. One likes them very much and takes a group photo with them happily. There are two cows here. One is as big as the other. The other is very small and lovely when standing in front of them. We went to the flocks of sheep, and we gently said "baa ~", interestingly, the lambs also responded to us, "baa ~ baa ~", one after another. They managed to make us all laugh.
I'm not interested in these cute "little" animals, and I even think in my head, how do these cattle and sheep cook best? How fat are they? Look at them so lazy, there must be not many!
Seeing someone driving a tractor to work, I quickly stopped the car and rushed out of the door with my camera to record the scene. Seeing that I was taking a picture for him, my uncle said hello warmly and invited us to come closer to take a picture. He also asked us to stand on his tractor to take a picture. It seems that you are also a forthright person!
Later, I learned that my uncle was not a local, but came to work from Heilongjiang. He would come here to cultivate at this time of year. My uncle said that if we come back next year, maybe we can meet him again. At that time, he will treat us to eat meat and drink wine.
The mountains on the opposite side of the river are Russia. However, because of the distance and the fog around the mountains, the mountains are not clear. On the contrary, they are like the distant mountains in Chinese landscape paintings. Chinese people pay attention to implicitness. This half hidden mountain seems to be more in line with Chinese aesthetics. It is also the cultural quality of the Chinese that makes the mountains of Russia look so beautiful. I often brush Russia on the Internet. I always say that Russian people are very strong. Even Russian cats are different from cats of any other country in the world. Russian cats are just as fierce as bears. Today, when I look at this cloud shrouded mountain, I can see a different scene. I can't say that Russian mountains are the most fierce!
With the mountains over there, it looks blue against the background of clouds. In this way, the blue layers are formed. Different blue paintings are gathered together. The layers are clear, and the feeling of ink painting is more intense. One stands in the middle of the road, cattle and sheep in the distance interact with her, and the background is clear, which is really a good composition.
Walking and patting along the way, it took four hours to drive 180 kilometers to Heishantou town. It's already 6 o'clock, and it's about time to watch the sunset. In the town, the mobile phone can also be turned off for normal use in flight mode. We navigated directly to heilongtou mountain without stopping for fear of
